Friday, August 13, 2010

Corneglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore, Vernazza revisited & Deiva Marina, Cinque Terre, Italy - June 11 2010

After having visited the first two towns of Cinque Terre, we set out to see the remaining three the following day. These three towns are quite close to one another and the walks between them are fairly easy and short.


First up: Corneglia, a small town perched high up on a hill along the coast.


This was the least nice of the five towns but it was neat how it was perched up on the hill.


Snack break! Stefan had this at a cafe along the edge of the town which you can see in the previous photos: a grilled veggie and cheese focaccia sandwich. A very simple but delicious sandwich.


And a pastry with apricot filling for dessert!


A wider view of the majority of Corneglia. On the other side of the town is a cliff which drops down to the ocean!


A walkway through the town. You can see the edge of the town which overlooks the cliff that we mentioned in the previous photo.


This shot was taken from the platform at the end of the walkway in the previous photo. We're looking Northwestward in this photo toward the direction of Vernazza and Monterosso.


When we got to the train station at Corneglia we found ourselves at the foot of the hillside on which Corneglia is perched. So instead of paying for the bus which drives you to the town, we decided to walk up the roadway. When we got to Corneglia we were greeted by this sign. Stairs?! What stairs?! Just to our left we saw this:


Oops. So after we were done in Corneglia we took these stairs down to the train station.


A view of the coast on our way to the next town, Manarola. There were lots of these giant cactus plants along the way!


Here you can see the train station for Corneglia as well as the town itself, situated along the top of the hill!


Wow!  What an amazing map!  Super professional, and (we are sure) weather-proof!  This was a map pinned to a post on the way from Corneglia to give hikers two options to get to Manarola.  We had a good chuckle over it;  it was a representation of getting directions in Italy...we very often found that even people who spoke perfect english were extremely vague when giving directions which led to walking everywhere but where you wanted to go!  But even though these directions seem super sketchy, they were great...simple and clear! 


Just around the bend before Manarola: an awesome sunbathing/swimming area!


And we're almost there! A view of Manarola.


The centre street in Manarola.


Mmm, focaccia!!! Lots to choose from.


Cliff got this "Monte e Mare" focaccia, which had proscuitto as well as anchovies on it.


What!?  Why are we posting a picture of a peach, you ask!?  Well, it really is just a peach, but not just any peach...it's a Cinque Terre peach!  These peaches are crazy good!  Stefan pretty much lived on a diet of peaches here!   We assume they must be from the area; often when you bought them they still had twigs and leaves attached to them...so they looked local and hand-picked!  They were insanely sweet and juicy!!!


The train station of Manarola, as seen on our way out of the town and onto the last of the five towns, Riomaggiore.


This walk was actually named the Walk of Love. Here you can see a whole shitload of locks locked to this cute little bench and the railing behind it!


As you can see the walk from Manarola to Riomaggiore was almost laughable compared to the hike we endured the day before from Monterosso to Vernazza: the walkway is flat! FLAT!! And PAVED!!
Although the walk was nice and relaxing it was a little disappointing because it wasn't terribly adventurous.


Here we are in Riomaggiore, in its little mini piazza in front of the train station, which is in the building on the left in the photo.


We had to walk from the station into the more populated part of the town. On our way we saw many lemon trees in people's yards. Stefan tried desperately to snag a lemon from a tree, but was unsuccessful :( However, he did snag one in Greece (because, you know, Greece is AWESOME!).


Here's a shot of the town, nestled a bit in the hills.


Random street! With a cute church, no less. We liked it because it looked very non-churchy...and it's white and pink! With a yellow steeple!


The harbour of Riomaggiore...cute! The actual harbour was quite small so a lot of the boats (as you can see) were kept on the main street that led down to the harbour. Just past the boats on the dock we sat and ate some yummy yummy peaches :)

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A row of houses along the road leading down to the harbour.



Two views of the harbour.


For dinner, we had come across nothing that looked promising on our trek through the three towns. So we decided to head back to our favourite of the five towns, Vernazza, for dinner. We ordered a pizza and a pesto lasagna from this little pizzeria in the town. The pizza had mozzarella, gorgonzola, and chicken, and it was deee-freakin-licious!!


When we got to Cinque Terre we saw a lot of menus with lasagna al pesto, which we learned was a local specialty. So of course we had to try one! It was a lasagna with cheese, pesto, olive oils, green beans and thin slices of potato. After having such bad luck with food in Italy, and with lasagna being such a common food there, it was refreshing (and a relief) to find a twist on this classic dish that also happened to be delicious!


For dessert, gelato!! In Italy there were of course tonnes of different gelato flavours, but this was one that we had not seen before. It was called Passione Profonda: yoghurt, white chocolate, and passionfruit. Delicioso! As long as Italians keep making new flavours, we'll have no problem trying them!


And to end our third day in the Cinque Terre area, we visited the beach of the town where we stayed, Deiva Marina. We decided that it was probably a good idea to take a walk around the town where we were staying! So we took some pictures. It was a nice little town but paled in comparison to the five towns of Cinque Terre.

Monterosso al Mare to Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy - June 10 2010

The first town we visited in Cinque Terre was the northwesternmost town, Monterosso al Mare. All the five towns are connected by footpaths that you can hike. The paths between Monterosso and Vernazza (the next town over) and between Vernazza and Corneglia are the toughest ones. This hike took us about two hours through the hillside, which may not seem like a lot, but get this: it was probably around 40 degrees! Even though it was ridiculously hot we were walking through vineyards and lemon groves, which was awesome because it was a very typical countryside kind of scene...


Here at Monterosso, which is split into two sides by a rock formation, there was a beach which spanned the entire west side.


Here you can see the rest of the beach. Of the five towns Monterosso was the only one with a very sprawling beachfront, complete with rows of beach chairs and umbrellas. So unfortunately this made the town feel slightly "resort-y". And what do you know, we totally forgot our swimsuits on this amazingly hot day!


The west end of the beach, where there is a building built into a natural cliff. The building was some sort of private resort or club. Notice the cool rock sculpture carved into the cliff! He's sitting on the cliff and lifting the top part of it on his back.


Here's a view of the west half of Monterosso as seen from the dividing peninsula.  See how long the beach runs!


And looking the other way is the other half of Monterosso. This other half is not as wide but runs deeper into the hill.


Random street in Monterosso!


Another random street in Monterosso, this time with some random Asian guy!



As the sign says, this is the way to Vernazza! This was the start of a very very VERY hot trek over to the second town. We think we needed about three times as much water as we carried! Even though it was tough it was totally worth doing. Walking between these towns is something you MUST do if you ever visit Italy.


A shot of the Eastern half of Monterosso as we're making our way to Vernazza.


Here you can see the path ahead of us in the hike, which has amazing views over the cliffside.


We're moving farther away from Monterosso!


Some stepped lemon groves and vineyards on the hillside on our walk.


Stairs on the hike...


On the other side of the hill is Vernazza. The path of the hike was great in that it was very varied in its proximity to the water and depth in the hills. You got a great variety of views depending on if you were low to the sea, or high up (like we are here in this photo).


Pretty! This is a narrow pathway up in the hills. On the right just outside of this photo is actually a very steep drop! Scary!


We see Vernazza!! It's very cute! It looks a lot closer than it actually is. We had to walk around the whole hill on the left before snaking back into the town. At this point we were low on water and dying of thirst! We got excited at seeing civilization but it was so close yet so far away (about another 45 minutes of walking)!!


Another pathway through vineyards up in the hills.


Vernazza's getting closer but still out of reach!


Every time we looked to see Vernazza it seemed close, but it was always farther away than we thought!


Between all these five towns the railroad goes through many hills and cliffs along the coastline. Here is a view of the railroad that links Monterosso to Vernazza. You can see the breakwater of Vernazza on the left side of this photo (we're looking Northwest in the direction of Monterosso).


A view of the small beachfront from the upper echelons of Vernazza. We were finally here!! Totally parched and exhausted we were on a mission to hunt down a (giant) bottle of ice-cold water.


A narrow alleyway between residential housing. It was very cute because it had laundry hanging out the windows, which all had flower boxes. Very typically Italian small town!


One of the main streets in Vernazza. No cars allowed!


So finally, we get a huge bottle of water and something Stefan was craving: lemon gelato! And holy shit, it was in a real carved-out Vernazza lemon! After the delicious gelato we got to suck on the frozen lemon. It wasn't the cheapest gelato but it was super refreshing, and worth every penny!


A shot of the beach from one end of the town. Most of the town sits in the hillside on the right hand side just out of the picture.


A shot of the harbour with the breakwater on the left.


A shot of the town from the edge of the breakwater. You can see all the people on the right of the photo sitting on the breakwater. It was a popular place to sit, eat, drink and relax, which we did many times!



A river running through the town.


After a cup of zabaione and kiwi gelatos in Monterosso, and the lemon gelato seen earlier, it was (of course) a good idea to have a THIRD gelato that day! This cup contained a cinnamon gelato and a nougat gelato.


Cliff had a hankering for an ice cream sandwich so he bought this sandwich with fior di latte gelato, which sort of tasted like whipped cream. Booooo.


Dinner time! With all the bad food we ate we decided it was best to just go with our gut when we went restaurant hunting. We found this place on the main drag in Vernazza which was not expensive (surprisingly!). And lo and behold, it was amazing! Our bad luck with food in Italy seemed to have ended in Cinque Terre.


        

Cliff's meal: Mussels stuffed with bread, milk, mortadella, eggs, parmesan, thyme, and pepper. They were amazing!



When Stefan saw this on the menu, it was listed as fresh pasta stuffed with fish, in a fresh tomato and olive sauce with zucchini and clams. As Stefan doesn't like clams they were nice enough to change it to shrimp. Also, since Stefan doesn't like eating non-descript fish, he had to find out what fish the pasta was stuffed with. When he found out it was sea bass he just about peed his pants with excitement!

If you look closely, you can see that the shrimp have their full shells on...tricky to eat, especially in a pasta dish.  If any of you have seen "Pretty Woman" and remember the part when Julia Roberts is shucking the oyster and it flies halfway across the restaurant and a waiter catches it...well, Stefan had a "Pretty Woman" moment with a shrimp, but there was no waiter to catch it! Instead, some girl's hair caught a piece of shrimp, and the shell ended up a few tables away, amazingly missing everyone and hitting the floor! How no-one saw, we don't know, but it was some funny stuff!  We just quickly turned back to our meals and kept eating! 

This definitely ended up being Stefan's favourite meal in all of Italy.  It was so tasty, and the beautiful setting made it that much better!